We’ve all been given a baseball cap as a promotional gimmick or giveaway, and most of the time we don’t wear them. Why not?
Because they look too new
If you want a hat that is the summer equivalent of a biker’s leather jacket, you have to do a bit of work. Squeaky clean baseball caps are great for cute children and ladies, but most men want something that looks as if it has earned its place on their head. Obviously if you wear it a great deal it will eventually get that rough round the edges look, but if you want a vintage looking hat from new, then you can take some rough sandpaper to the seams and brim of the hat too take the edge of the newness. Then bury it overnight (yes really!) and wash it the next day in a good hot wash with some washing soda in it (remember to mark where you buried it though or you may lose it forever) and in just 24 hours you’ve got a hat that looks like its been worn all summer. Leaving your hat in the sun for a couple of days also helps to give it a weathered look.
Because they are flat billed
Some baseball caps are made flat-billed because they are easier to manufacture and ship, but if you want a classic curved brim, simply find a beer mug (the kind with a handle) dampen the brim and put it in the mug overnight. By next morning the hat will have a nice curve across the brim. Don’t do this when drunk, or you may put the bill in the mug the wrong way and end up with a hat that looks like it’s smiling.
It’s a stupid colour
This is the supplier’s fault and if your baseball cap is a promotional item then you can expect the company whose logo appears on the hat to disappear before too long – it’s a very stupid mistake to provide promotional clothing in colours that nobody wants to wear, even if that is the brand colour. Much better advice is to keep the logo in brand colours and to pick black, navy, red or white for the cap colour because those are the classic colourways that most people are happy to have on their heads.
It’s too big
If your cap is not adjustable, and it’s made of cotton, you can try shrinking it. First make it wet – if it has a plastic bill you can dip it in warm water, and then wring it out slightly before putting it on your head – wear it until it is completely dry. It will fit you like a glove.
There’s nothing like celebrity endorsement to get a business off the ground, although sometimes that can backfire, as Jamie Oliver is discovering: his new Brighton restaurant has been in the press twice this week – once because he apparently ‘stole’ a chef from Aldo Zilli, and now because a naked pregnant woman is picketing it for animal rights.
On the other hand Liam Gallagher has never been one to hide his light under a bushel and in establishing his own clothing line, he’s spoken out about clothes. On winklepicker shoes he says ‘You know them shoes that just come at you like a ****ing snooker cue! It’s like, leave it out man! You got a license for them bastards or what?’ and on celebrity clothing lines in general he’s equally forthright ‘I’m doing it cuz there’s a lack of stuff out there of the things I would wear …. I’m not into the skinny look. That’s what I’m here for, to ****ing get rid of that s***.’
So what does his line deliver, apart from the need to delete expletives when repeating his words on our blog? It’s called Pretty Green after the Jam song and, as you might expect, it has a mod feel to it: skinny jeans (although they aren’t skinny jeans, obviously because Liam’s not into that, as he’s said), some T-shirts that look quite retro and, of course, parkas.
And in case you thought this was a British phenomenon, Justin Timberlake has put his name to a tequila blend this month too.
The thing is, Liam’s clothing line and Justin’s tequila will sell to their fans, because that’s what fan means – being a fanatic about what your star does. But for the rest of us, a stronger focus on excellent products, value for money and superlative service are going to remain important – because that’s how our customers will become our fans too.
Embroidery is an ancient artistic technique that is still used today to make a piece of clothing more distinctive. Until the invention of screen printing, there were only two ways to get fabric to carry a message – it had to be either woven in as tapestry or embroidered on with thread, and modern embroidery contains a range of high technology methods and materials to allow the embroidery machine to create intricate patterns that seem three-dimensional, complex writing that can mimic anybody’s handwriting, or detailed images with subtle shading and textures.
Embroidery has a wide range of uses from the creation of elegant logos in metallic thread which give a touch of high style to company uniforms, especially those used in hotel and spa environments, through to bright three-dimensional blocks of colour that make up a company’s logo and stand out against a dark blue or black T-shirt or barkeeper’s apron – both these techniques have particular use in situations like bars, restaurants and other locations that are often low-lit.
Embroidery is also useful in creating promotional clothing for company events as it can conveys information but also gives an air of luxury and classic styling to any clothing, but especially on shirts, blouses and corporate clothing. The scale of embroidery is usually intricate and detailed, which makes it particularly suitable for monograms on cuffs and collars or on bathrobes or caps.
In ‘bespoke’ businesses, those that have a low staff turnover and a reputation of style and luxury to live up to, have names ‘detailed’ which means embroidered on the clothing, looks classic and understated and gives a much better impression than a name badge. If that seems out of your cost range, you can consider embroidery patches which can be made up in bulk and then sewn onto suitable garments or bags or other merchandise. It’s a highly personalised approach that is popular with customers because it looks rich and elegant.

Meryl Streep courtesy of Adonis Chen
There have been a series of articles about the vintage hotties who are currently wowing the world: Sharon Stone and Helen Mirren, Susan Sarandon and Meryl Streep, all of whom have had major cinematic hits at a point in their lives when female movie stars used to become almost invisible. Their clothes have garnered as much attention as their performances – with Sarandon’s red dresses and Streep’s swing coats turning up on catwalk models half their age or less. But one thing few of them have been photographed in … is a T-shirt.
That doesn’t mean women over a certain age shouldn’t wear T-shirts – two of the UK’s finest talents: Judie Dench and Julie Walters, both made red carpet appearances in formal-style T-shirts this year, and Meryl Streep brought the long sleeved jersey T-shirt back into high prominence in The Devil Wears Prada, but it does mean there are new rules to be aware of.
Midriff baring is best left to the under thirties who have abdomens of steel – even the faintest wrinkle or bulge will look glaring if your skin peeks out from under your T-shirt.
The arms matter. In cap or short sleeves, you have to be sure that there isn’t some arm strangle going on – sleeves should be relaxed, not clamped around a body area that does tend to show one’s age at the best of times. For spaghetti straps, make sure you don’t end up with a back fat bulge – it’s not seemly. And while the very young can probably get away with three or four straps on each arm, for vintage ladies it’s probably best to just wear one set of straps and a good supporting, strapless bra.
Oversized T-shirts (Dawn French apart) are not good for public appearances unless you’re on the beach. It just gives the impression that you’ve surrendered to your age, or that you’ve had a senior moment and pulled on your hubby’s T-shirt by mistake. A fitted T-shirt is alluring, especially one that’s specially shaped to the female figure
T-shirts with clever slogans are great, but if you’re over twenty, you need to step back and ask if the message is so important that you want it across your chest. What’s cute in a teen can seem like a brash statement in somebody with age and authority on their side – Katharine Hamnett may have made a career out of T-shirt messages but be very sure that the words you wear really do define the person you wish people to see.
Karen Davidson, great-granddaughter of Harley-Davidson co-founder William A. Davidson is creative director of general merchandise for Harley-Davidson and supervises design for the company’s two decade old MotorClothes division. Since 1947, when the first Harley leather jackets appeared, the biker ‘uniform’ of black leather jacket, jeans and T-shirt has been a classic, but now things are changing – the traditional ‘leather’ has been joined by leather treated to be water resistant, and even by cottons and synthetic materials.
As bikers have aged, they have also wanted more from their clothing, like shirts that work on the bike and in the office too. And the customer mix has changed: men purchase about 60% of the clothing and women buy 40%. This has meant creating brighter colours and new styles along the classic lines. Pink leather jackets were introduced a couple years ago and fitted Harley T-shirts are a big seller. Now the line is expanding again to include grommets and appliqués to personalise both T-shirts and jackets.
Harley-Davidson T-shirt courtesy of jorgemejia

But not just any old T-shirt. It was the elite troops of the Colombian Army who deceived the terrorist group ‘Revolutionary Armed Forces of Colombia’ (FARC) into handing over hostages who’d been kept in the jungle for nearly six years. And one of their tools was a Che Guevera T-shirt.
The left wing terror group had become expert in kidnapping during its war with the Colombian state but Colombian Army members infiltrated the very highest levels of FARC and were able to bring a helicopter to a jungle rendezvous, claiming they were taking the hostages to an international meeting to show FARC’s power. The most senior member of the infiltration team spent nearly half an hour on the ground with the terrorists, laughing and joking, and clad in a Che Guevara T-shirt, which seems to have helped the FARC soldiers accept that he was ‘one of them’.
Once back in the air, the amazed hostages, including Ingrid Betancourt, a former candidate for President of Colombia who had been kept in isolation for over five years, were told their ‘captors’ were actually their rescuers.
Che courtesy of slavin fpo

Military and heraldic embroidery might seem a long way away from modern clothing, but although its history is ancient, the art is fully up to date. One family of embroiderers (called bullion workers because their embroidery took place with golden thread, actually silk woven with genuine gold bullion) came to England in 1767. They were originally Huguenot refugees from Flanders who’d learned their skills in entourage of Catherine de Medicis, when she married into the French court in the 16th century.
In this period heraldic art was used to show the pomp and power of the wearer – garments trimmed with gold lace and embroidery show the rank and achievements of the person they fitted. The family’s name was Hand. The business continued and thrived, moving into embroidery for wedding dresses and stage costumes too. By 2001, M. Hand, merged with the Lock firm of embroiders to form a business that focuses on military, fashion and couture embroidery.
Today you can actually tour the Hand and Lock showrooms and see hand embroidery with genuine gold thread take place in front of you – it’s an astonishing sight. Their embroidery is sent around the world and appears on everything from the dresses worn on stage by Celine Dion to the crests and emblems worn by Princes William and Harry, and other officers, on dress parade.
Although it might sound far removed from daily life, most of us absorb the impressions of crests and emblems every day, although they probably aren’t hand-embroidered from pure gold! Every school blazer carries a crest, every police department has an emblem along with its shield, every soldier bears his rank, and company along with other insignia and the first thing we do when a meter reader knocks on our door is ask to see his or her ID – which will have a crest or emblem on it! Embroidery on workwear is usually machine embroidered now, which makes it a lot cheaper than Hand and Lock’s output (here’s a clue, they still price their products in guineas, never a sign of something cheap) but still gives the same impression of officialdom, history and heritage.
Workwear insignia courtesy of connor365

The former Spice Girl, who is now the ‘face’ or rather the ‘body’ of lingerie manufacturer Ultimo, has admitted to a strange addiction: she adores T-shirts from one particular second-hand shop in her new home town – Los Angeles. She says, ‘There’s a place on
British-born Mel was given the nickname Scary Spice by the British media because of her outrageous, attitude, ‘abrasive’ Leeds accent and manner of dress on stage – often in leopard-print-skin-tight outfits. She’s also famous for her courtroom paternity battle with Eddie Murphy, who has since admitted fathering her daughter, Angel.
Mel B courtesy of Tawny Kate-aen
Screen printing seems like a quite recent invention to most of us, but a version of it was used in medieval Japan to create images for the backs of silk robes worn at court.
The first application of it in Europe was in the eighteenth century, when it was used to stencil patterns on to fabric for soft furnishings. It wasn’t until the twentieth century that screen printing became a mechanised process, used to create posters, or packaging and fabrics.
There’s a paradox in the history of screen printing that arises at exactly the point when screen printing becomes sexy (the 1960s) and mass market, it also became something that was used to produce limited edition, highly collectable art called Pop Art – creators such as Andy Warhol and Roy Lichenstein turned screen printing into a T-shirt, comic book and even art form. There probably wasn’t a home or chest in the country that didn’t have something screen-printed: a logo, a keep on truckin’ slogan, a lampshade or a poster.
Since then it’s become an ever more sophisticated process. Original limited edition prints can be produced under the direct control of the creator in signed limited numbers, and they might be paintings to hang on a wall or T-shirts to be sold in couture establishments. The immediacy of screen printing, its crisp colours and shapes and ability to work on any material make this the most versatile printing system ever.
hand-printing T-shirts by veganstraightedge
We all know that wedding favours are often monogrammed with the happy couple’s initials, but this most ancient of embroidery arts is being brought right up to date this Christmas in a range of ideas that not only make gifts more personal, but more environmentally friendly too. How? Well people are much less likely to throw out anything that has their name or initials embroidered into it, they are less likely to lose it and if they do, it’s more likely to be traceable so it can be returned to them – that means less replacement items are bought for lost towels or T-shirts, and that treasured older clothes don’t become ‘old’ they become ‘vintage’ because they have the wearer’s identity bound into their fabric.If you want to give a monogrammed gift, here are the basic rules:
And how are those monograms being used? I’ll explain it all in my next post …
Monogram image by Jules